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Ranikot Fort, Great Wall of Sindh, needs to be fully explored

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Ranikot, one of the largest forts of the world, has the potential to become a beautiful and scenic site for the local as well as international if developed in proper direction with availability of required facilities.

Ranikot, popularly known as the Great Wall of Sindh, had been declared as a world heritage site by Pakistan National Commission for UNESCO in 1993 under Antiquities Act 1975. This beautiful and mountainous site is being visited by nature lovers, historians and archaeologists for exploring its scenic beauty and lovely ascending and descending wall stretching for kilometres.

Like Mohenjo-daro, Gorakh Hills, Makli graveyard, Keenjhar lake and several other cultural and archaeological sites, Ranikot can be developed in such a way that it could be flourished as a tourist hub of Sindh.

Sindh, having thousands of years of history of ancient Indus valley civilization, is home to nearly 3000 sites and monuments of which 1600 are protected under the Sindh Cultural Heritage (Protection) Act – 1994 while the rest remain unprotected.

Ranikot Fort, presumed to have been built by former rulers for strategic purposes, is one of the largest forts of the world with a circumference of approximately 32 kilometres and is located 120 kilometres northwest of Hyderabad.

Some historians attribute this to the Arabs while remaining have claims that this fort was built by Sasanians (Persians), Greeks and some even go as far as to relate it to the Romans and the Great Wall of China but no one knows its ancientness because little work had been done to explore it.

The Chairman Sindhi Language Authority and writer Dr. Muhammad Ali Manjhi while talking to APP said Ranikot fort, was one of the oldest monuments of Pakistan, which had a history dating back to thousand years but unfortunately no one knew about its ancientness.

Like Mohenjo-daro, detailed archeological exploration is needed for historical assessment of this gigantic monument, Dr. Manjhi said while replying to a question.

He was of the opinion that Ranikot had also been used by 18th and 19th century rulers of Sindh, Kalhoras and the Talpurs as proved by radiocarbon tests of the collapsed portion of Sann Gate but they were not the original architectures of this great Fort and its great wall which stretches for about 32 kilometers.

“This enchanting fort is located on the right side of the mighty River Indus in the Lucky Mountain of the Kirthar range at about 30 kilometers from Sann town, writes Ishtiaq Ansari in his book ‘Sindh ja Kot Ain Qilla’.

Ranikot is the ‘fort of a rain stream – Rani. The rain stream runs through it and also irrigates fields in the series of turquoise pools, and leaves the fort on the eastern side of its most used ‘Sann Gate.’ It then travels 33 more kilometers to enter the mighty River Indus.

A mountainous ridge, “Karo Takkar”, which runs north to south, forms its western boundary and its eastern boundary is made by the ‘Lundi Hills.’ A rain stream, ‘Mohan Nai.’ flows into the fort from its rarely used western ‘Mohan Gate’ where a small fortification guards it which changed its name to ‘Reni’ or ‘Rani Nai’ or the rain stream which gives its name to the fort as ‘Ranikot’.

Most of the thirty two kilometers long wall is made of natural cliffs and mountain rock barricades, at places as high as two thousand feet above sea level. Only about eight or nine kilometers of wall is man-made, constructed from yellow sandstone while the rest of it is covered by the mountain rocks.

A spring that emerges from an underground water resource located near the Mohan Gate is named ‘Parryen jo Tarru’ (Fairy Spring). According to a tale, which local inhabitants narrate, fairies come from far and large to take bath near “Karo Jabal” (Black Mountain) on full moon night. One can hear splashing sounds of water falling on the rocks at another spring which is famously described as ‘Waggun jo Tarru’ (Crocodiles Spring) named so as the crocodiles once lived there.

The three fortresses inside the Ranikot are Miri Kot, Sher Garh and Mohan Kot. Mirikot takes its name from the word ‘Mir, meaning top (for example, the top of the hill, the top leader of the tribes). Both the principal Ranikot and the inner Mirikot have similar entrances curved, angled with a safe tortuous path. “The bridge in front of Ranikot is like a smaller bridge in front of a castle in Verona, Italy,” writes Ishtiaq Ansari, who was also a member of the Sindh Exploration and Adventure Society which had conducted a geological survey two decades ago.

The Mirikot is the safest fortress from the military point of view, as it is situated in the centre of the Ranikot, at a very safe place. Talpur Mirs made use of Mirikot as their fortified house. One can explore courtyard ruins, harem, guest rooms and quarters of soldiers within. The wall is 1434 feet long and comprises five bastions.

Each Ranikot structure has its own singularity and beauty. Looking up from Mirikot one can see another fortified citadel called Shergarh (Lion’s Abode) made of whitish stone. The position at 1480 feet above sea level makes this fortress outstanding. The steep ascent to Shergarh gives a commanding bird eye view of the entire fort and its points of entry and exit. One can even see Indus on a bright day, the thirty seven kilometres to the East.

Mohan Kot, the third fortress, takes its name from Mohan Gate, due to its proximity to it. Mohan Kot is the place where military commanders would have lived.

There are two more gates, beside the Mohan Gate and the Sann gate. One is to the side of ancient Amri city. It is called ‘Amri Gate’. In the South, Shahpir Gate appears to be a pseudo gate. It takes its name from a limestone rock having a rough foot shape imprinted on it. Supposedly, the sacred footprint belongs to Fourth Caliph Hazrat Ali (RA) or some other religious personality and is venerated by local people, Ishtiaq Ansari mentioned it in his book.

A mosque found at the fort appears to be a later watch tower alteration. One can keep an eye on the whole Ranikot from a place located near the mosque.

There are three graveyards at different places inside the fort where several ancient graves can be seen but no one knows who were buried there. Another graveyard is located one and a half kilometer away from the main Sann Gate. It had about sixteen graves. Local inhabitants call it the graveyard of the Romans. The Fort is historically lacking in shelters and shady areas, but the view of the field from the top of Hills’ is not only enticing but also mystifying.

Rahimdad Khan Molai Sheedai, a historian, claimed that it was granted its strategic importance due to its position in Kohistan on Sindh’s western border. Hence, they built the fort. Talpurs were also under threat from Durranis and Ranjit Singh and Ranikot added a lot to their defence.

In November 2017, Sindh Culture, Tourism and Antiquities department had signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with the Italian authorities to launch joint research activities in the field of history and archaeology, especially in connection with Bhambore and Ranikot but it had not been materialized due to lack of interest of the provincial government.

At that time, Sindh Minister for Culture and Tourism, Sayed Sardar Ali Shah had said that no one exactly knew how old Ranikot Fort was, but now research work would soon be started to uncover the mystery of this gigantic monument. He termed that agreement a major step towards exploration and development of the largest fort of the world.

Three year binding MoU is also meant to work together to develop a common programme for the training of the young officers of the department, Shah had hoped but nothing had been done during the said period.

To a question, writer and local resident, Haider Mallah, told APP that no serious efforts had ever been made by the authorities concerned for the exploration of the site to ascertain the ancientness of this mysterious fort of the world.

In his research, Dr. N A Baloch had maintained that Talpur rulers might have built the fort as they had used it as a safe residence, Haider Mallah said and suggested that Mohan Gate could be used for radiocarbon testing to explore the mystery of the fort.

Veteran archaeologist Badar Abro in his research had also indicated some places including Mohan Gate for further testing so as to ascertain its ancientness, Mallah added.

Ranikot, a beautiful and talismanic place of Sindh, should be developed as a potential tourist hub for local as well as for the foreign tourists to visit and explore it. This site can be used for hiking, exploration and as a picnic point by the general public, students and nature lovers.

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Ranikot Fort: The Great Wall of Sindh

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Ranikot Fort, often dubbed as the “Great Wall of Sindh,” is one of Pakistan’s most fascinating and enigmatic historical landmarks. Situated near the town of Sann in Jamshoro District, Sindh, the fort is recognized as one of the largest in the world, with a perimeter of around 32 kilometers (20 miles). Despite its immense size and strategic location, much about its origins remains a mystery, adding to its allure and significance as a cultural and historical monument.

Historical Background

Ranikot Fort is believed to have been originally constructed in the first half of the 17th century, though there are varying accounts about its exact origins. Some historians suggest that it may date back even further, to the reign of the Sassanian Empire or earlier. It was later renovated and expanded during the rule of the Talpur Mirs in the early 19th century, as they sought to fortify their domain against external threats.

The purpose of the fort, however, remains unclear. While some believe it was built as a defense against invasions, others argue that it was a means of securing trade routes or serving as a safe haven for local rulers. The lack of any major historical records associated with significant battles or sieges at Ranikot adds to the ambiguity surrounding its function.

Architectural Marvel

The scale of Ranikot is staggering, covering an area of approximately 32 square kilometers. The fort’s massive walls snake across the barren landscape, resembling the Great Wall of China, with which it is often compared. Constructed from limestone and sandstone, the fort’s walls rise up to 6 meters (20 feet) in height and are punctuated by several bastions and watchtowers.

Ranikot has four main gates: Sann Gate, Amri Gate, Shah-Pere Gate, and Mohan Gate, each offering access to different sections of the fort. The Sann Gate, located on the eastern side, is the main entrance and is notable for its intricate design and stonework.

Within the fort’s vast expanse lies another fortification known as the “Meeri” or “Mirikot,” a small fort within the larger walls that served as the residence of the Talpur Mirs. This inner fort has its own gates and walls, adding an additional layer of defense. The Meeri Fort is perched on a hill, providing a commanding view of the surrounding landscape.

The Great Wall of Sindh

The fort’s walls, stretching across the arid hills, resemble a smaller version of the Great Wall of China. This feature has earned Ranikot the nickname “The Great Wall of Sindh.” The zigzagging walls extend for miles, blending into the rocky terrain, and are a stunning sight, especially at sunrise or sunset when the golden light casts long shadows over the surrounding desert.

Unlike the Great Wall of China, however, Ranikot is not located in a highly populated or strategically important area. Its remote location has contributed to the fort’s air of mystery, as well as its relative obscurity in the global historical and architectural landscape.

Mysteries and Theories

The true purpose of Ranikot Fort is still shrouded in mystery. Scholars and historians have proposed various theories about why it was built, ranging from a defense structure against invasions from Central Asia to a royal retreat for the Talpur dynasty. Some suggest that it was intended to protect the local population from bandits and raiders, while others believe it may have been a strategic point for controlling trade routes passing through the region.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Ranikot is the lack of significant historical records or evidence of major battles taking place there. Its size and scale suggest that it must have had some important function, yet it remains an enigma to this day.

Cultural Significance

Ranikot Fort is not only an architectural marvel but also a cultural treasure. It stands as a testament to the rich history of Sindh, a region that has been home to ancient civilizations, including the Indus Valley Civilization. The fort’s design reflects the influences of various dynasties and cultures that have ruled over Sindh, from the Greeks and Mauryas to the Mughals and Talpurs.

In modern times, Ranikot has gained recognition as a symbol of Sindh’s historical heritage. The fort has been nominated for inclusion in UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites list, which would help preserve and promote this incredible site on a global stage.

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Terich Mir: The Majestic Peak of the Hindu Kush. (33rd Highest Peak in the World)

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Terich Mir, standing proudly at an elevation of 7,708 meters (25,289 feet), is the highest peak in the Hindu Kush mountain range and one of the tallest mountains in the world. Located in the Chitral District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, Terich Mir is a symbol of natural beauty, geographical significance, and adventure, attracting mountaineers, trekkers, and nature enthusiasts from around the globe.

Geographical Significance

Terich Mir is part of the western Himalayas, which extends into the Pamirs and Karakoram ranges. Its towering presence dominates the landscape of Chitral, a region already known for its breathtaking valleys, rivers, and forests. The mountain stands as a natural divider, separating the valleys of the upper Chitral region from Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. Its prominence has made it a focal point in the study of climate, geography, and ecology within this part of the world.

Cultural and Historical Relevance

The name “Terich Mir” is thought to have origins in the local language, where “Terich” refers to the valley and “Mir” means king. It is often referred to as the “King of the Hindu Kush” due to its stature and importance in local lore and geography.

The people of Chitral have lived in the shadow of this great mountain for centuries, and their culture is deeply intertwined with the landscape. The Kalash, a unique indigenous community residing in nearby valleys, maintain ancient traditions, rituals, and festivals that are as enduring as the peaks themselves. Terich Mir plays a key role in the region’s oral history, and local legends often attribute mystical significance to the mountain.

Mountaineering and Exploration

Since the first successful ascent in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition led by Arne Næss, Terich Mir has been a sought-after destination for mountaineers. The peak presents a variety of challenges, from steep icy slopes to unpredictable weather, making it a technical climb that only experienced climbers dare attempt. Despite its allure, fewer expeditions attempt Terich Mir compared to peaks in the Karakoram, partly due to its remoteness and difficult accessibility.

For trekkers and nature lovers, the region offers an unparalleled experience. The approach to the base of Terich Mir involves scenic routes through the Chitral valley, crossing lush meadows, rushing rivers, and serene villages. The awe-inspiring vistas of the snow-capped mountains, combined with the tranquility of the region, offer a sense of connection with nature that is difficult to match.

Biodiversity and Ecology

Terich Mir is not just a marvel for its size but also for the unique flora and fauna that inhabit the region. The area around the mountain supports diverse ecosystems, ranging from alpine meadows to glacial landscapes. Wildlife in the region includes snow leopards, ibex, Marco Polo sheep, and a wide variety of bird species. The forests at the lower elevations are home to rich biodiversity, contributing to the mountain’s ecological significance.

Tourism Potential and Conservation

While Terich Mir remains relatively unexplored compared to some of Pakistan’s other peaks, its potential as a tourist destination is immense. Promoting sustainable tourism in the region can bring economic opportunities to the local communities while raising awareness about the need to protect the fragile environment of the Hindu Kush.

Efforts are already underway to develop infrastructure to support eco-tourism, with the local government and NGOs working together to balance the needs of conservation and economic development. The serene beauty of the region combined with the cultural richness of Chitral makes Terich Mir not only a climber’s paradise but also a destination for those looking to experience Pakistan’s unparalleled natural heritage.

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A Man-Made Wonder: Changa Manga – The World’s Largest Artificial Forest

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The Changa Manga Forest, located in Pakistan’s Punjab province, is one# of the most impressive 12,000 hectares (47 square miles), this man-made wonder is not only the world’s largest artificial forest but also a symbol of Pakistan’s commitment to environmental conservation, biodiversity, and reforestation.

The Origin Story: An Ingenious Solution

The Changa Manga forest was established in 1866 by the British, primarily to meet the growing demand for timber to fuel the expanding railway system of the Indian subcontinent. The British colonial government realized that they needed a sustainable source of wood to produce railway sleepers, which led to the creation of this artificial forest. Located 70 kilometers southwest of Lahore, the forest was named after two legendary bandits, Changa and Manga, who once roamed the area.

A Testament to Human Ingenuity

The forest was not grown naturally but was planted in a planned and systematic manner, transforming barren land into a thriving forest ecosystem. The efforts undertaken in the 19th century remain a testament to human ingenuity and the power of reforestation. Over the years, Changa Manga has grown into a dense forest that supports a variety of trees, plants, and wildlife, creating a self-sustaining ecosystem.

A Hub of Biodiversity

Today, the Changa Manga Forest is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an incredible array of flora and fauna. Eucalyptus, shisham, and mulberry trees dominate the landscape, providing shelter and sustenance to numerous animal species. Wildlife such as deer, wild boars, jackals, and a variety of bird species thrive in this carefully nurtured habitat.

The forest is also known for its role in producing honey, an industry that thrives due to the variety of flowering plants. Additionally, medicinal plants are cultivated here, further contributing to the forest’s economic and environmental importance.

Environmental and Economic Impact

The significance of Changa Manga extends beyond its natural beauty. The forest plays a vital role in carbon sequestration, helping to mitigate the effects of climate change by absorbing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. It also helps in soil conservation, groundwater recharge, and the regulation of local climate conditions.

Economically, the forest is an important resource for timber and wood-based industries, generating revenue while supporting sustainable forestry practices. The honey and medicinal plant industries further add to its economic contributions. Additionally, the forest offers a recreation area for eco-tourism, attracting nature lovers, students, and researchers.

Challenges and Conservation Efforts

Despite its significance, Changa Manga has faced challenges, particularly deforestation and illegal logging. Urban encroachment and exploitation of its resources have also threatened its sustainability. However, conservation efforts have been initiated by both governmental and non-governmental organizations to protect this valuable forest. Reforestation drives and strict regulations on logging have been put in place to ensure that Changa Manga continues to thrive.

A Tourist Haven

Changa Manga is not just an ecological asset but also a recreational haven for tourists. The forest offers a variety of activities such as boating, bird watching, picnicking, and horse riding, making it a popular weekend destination for locals. The Changa Manga Wildlife Park within the forest is another attraction, housing a variety of animals and providing educational opportunities for visitors interested in nature and conservation.

Conclusion: A Legacy of Green

Changa Manga stands as a living example of the possibilities of human intervention in nature for the greater good. It not only provides resources and a livelihood for many but also acts as a green lung for the region, contributing to environmental sustainability. As the world grapples with climate change and deforestation, Changa Manga offers hope and inspiration for reforestation efforts globally.

The Changa Manga Forest, a man-made wonder, is a lasting legacy of foresight, environmental stewardship, and the power of human effort to shape a greener, more sustainable future.

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